Scim77
Member
I have just checked the wheel alignment on my bike and discovered that it was slightly wrong. I hasten to point out that, since buying it from Gaz2212, this is the first and only thing thing that I have found to be (slightly) wrong. Fortunately, GAZ had fitted Gilles swing arm chain tensioners, so the adjusting procedure was easier and more accurate.
I used the string method. I found some very thin but strong nylon twine. Anchored it forward and to the left of the front tyre, routed it back to the rear tyre, looped it 360 deg round the tyre and through the spokes and then forward again, to a point forward and to the right of the front tyre. I guess you all know this method too. After very carefully and patiently setting the exact 'touch-points' on the rear tyre, I measured the gaps at either side of the front tyre. I had 18mm on the left and 37mm on the right side. So the rear wheel was pointing slightly to the right, making the bike want to steer left a tad, which is what I was detecting at times. This wander left was subtle but consistent.
I proceeded to alter the chain tensioners to point the rear wheel further to the left. After each adjustment, I carefully repeated the 'touch-point' set-up on the string and measured again. After five changes I finally got equal gaps on both sides of the front tyre. Voila!
The string method is incredibly accurate if done with patience and care. It is wise to tap the adjusters and axle locators towards the front regularly, to keep the axle firmly against the adjusters. I also nipped the axle each time as I got closer to optimum setting and checked again. Fianlly, I set the chain tension by moving both adjusters by exactly the same amount and re-torqued the axle. I did a final confirmation check.
I did 10 miles on the bike today, during a brief sunny spell, and it felt superb. It has regained a natural stability and arrow-like accuracy. Well worth the effort.
I used the string method. I found some very thin but strong nylon twine. Anchored it forward and to the left of the front tyre, routed it back to the rear tyre, looped it 360 deg round the tyre and through the spokes and then forward again, to a point forward and to the right of the front tyre. I guess you all know this method too. After very carefully and patiently setting the exact 'touch-points' on the rear tyre, I measured the gaps at either side of the front tyre. I had 18mm on the left and 37mm on the right side. So the rear wheel was pointing slightly to the right, making the bike want to steer left a tad, which is what I was detecting at times. This wander left was subtle but consistent.
I proceeded to alter the chain tensioners to point the rear wheel further to the left. After each adjustment, I carefully repeated the 'touch-point' set-up on the string and measured again. After five changes I finally got equal gaps on both sides of the front tyre. Voila!
The string method is incredibly accurate if done with patience and care. It is wise to tap the adjusters and axle locators towards the front regularly, to keep the axle firmly against the adjusters. I also nipped the axle each time as I got closer to optimum setting and checked again. Fianlly, I set the chain tension by moving both adjusters by exactly the same amount and re-torqued the axle. I did a final confirmation check.
I did 10 miles on the bike today, during a brief sunny spell, and it felt superb. It has regained a natural stability and arrow-like accuracy. Well worth the effort.