Yes. started in the Airforce back in -97 on F-16's, made the swap to a civilian airliner in 2000 on 737's. got out of it in 2006 and changed to the oil industry.Only issue with a Nyloc nut is that if/when you take it off it really needs a new one every time or it defeats the object.
Spilt pin seem like the perfect solution.
Noggie you were in the industry as well? Thats 3 members and counting.
I changed to the oil industry, 28/28 rotation working world wide, but mostly Asia.So we got 2 AVX engineers then that what I trained in, doing continuing airworthiness management now, more money less hours haha
My employer, was bought by another airline, and 3 years later the shut down our maintenance facility.Really, how did you get into that?
Why bother to remove threadlock once applied? It may not lock as tightly second time around, but unless there are exceptional circumstances it wont vibrate loose ever even if the glue is broken by adjusting it. You would only have to put more on when the adjuster nut is wound further in, and even then if you didn't it could only vibrate out as far as previous setting. I generally only ever apply it once, nothing ever dropped off any of my race bikes this way (not strictly true, an R clip once popped out allowing pad pin to slide free, but cant threadlock that anyway), I only applied it more than once to extremely critical parts (safety wise). Must have had my rearsets off 50 times while only applying it 3 or 4 times during this period, over several years.threadlock is good for stuff that you are going to bolt in and not remove again, or in a very long time.
These adjusters are something you will probably adjust once or twice a season depending on how much you ride. I'd hate to be cleaning threads and re-applying that every time.
I was thinking that a Nord-lock washer might work too, those things are awesome.
I guess there are numerous possibilities.
-Nylock nut
-Nord-Lock washer
-Regular lock washer
-Palnut might work too
-When I worked in the airline industry we had lock nuts with oval holes
-Drill a hole and use a cotter pin
-Drill a hole and use locking wire
-A circlip of the right size night work too.
Or just grab a spanner every now an then and check the nuts.
Why bother to remove threadlock once applied? It may not lock as tightly second time around, but unless there are exceptional circumstances it wont vibrate loose ever even if the glue is broken by adjusting it. You would only have to put more on when the adjuster nut is wound further in, and even then if you didn't it could only vibrate out as far as previous setting. I generally only ever apply it once, nothing ever dropped off any of my race bikes this way (not strictly true, an R clip once popped out allowing pad pin to slide free, but cant threadlock that anyway), I only applied it more than once to extremely critical parts (safety wise). Must have had my rearsets off 50 times while only applying it 3 or 4 times during this period, over several years.
Anybody here experienced with drilling threaded rod? I fabricate various things from bespoke brackets to trailers, & my job involves structural repairs of sorts, either way I can tell you than drilling a threaded rod is a very bad idea. You will only have 1 point at which a stop can be applied, it is very difficult to do accurately even with a pillar drill & vice & the size of the rod concerned would necessitate a 1-1.5mm drill bit to maintain torsional strength in the adjuster rod. Drilling steel with a 1 or 1.5mm drill bit onto a convex threaded surface is a nightmare (even assuming it is punched correctly first), you'd be lucky to only need 6 drill bits they shear ridiculously easily.You would also find it rusted immediately once wet, as the BZP plating is obviously disrupted exposing plain mild steel, through which another ferrous metal would be placed creating galvanic corrosion. I can hardly believe this discussion is happening when threadlock has been used for decades for exactly this sort of application! Not trying to upset anybody here, but this is the first thread on this forum I've seen where I cant believe whats being suggested when a perfectly simple solution is well known about and used! Afterthought - should make clear i'm referring to the medium strength most commonly used form of threadlock, not the stuff meant for permanent use.