Changing from 1st to 2nd?

[xt660isgood2]

Is it me? Or do others struggle to get a smooth change between these gears? The mighty xt and It seems effortless. but I do struggle with the mt and sometimes look like a bloody learner? Admitedley I don't ride the mt that much. But just interested if it might be an age thing?

 

[DJP]

Can't say I've noticed tbh. On pretty much all bikes the throw from 1st to 2nd is a long one which tends to make it the most "Challenging" gearchange on anything.

The MT doesn't have the smoothest gearbox in the world (you need a Suzuki for that ) however, as long as the chain adjustment is cock-on it's pretty much seamless.

 

[Yaminator]

Check oil level and chain tension...?

 

[Eddieh93]

Make sure your chain is at the correct tension to avoid missing gears or spurious neutrals.

 

[Ralph]

Make sure you are letting the lever return to its rest position between changes and they seem to like fast changes.

 

[Eddieh93]

I hate that Ralph it can be annoying

 

[badger27]

Try changing up with your using the clutch practise will make them super smooth

 

[jobac]

I guess you mean 'without' using your clutch! - this is a good skill to learn, fast seamless changes. When you want to change up apply a little pressure to the gear lever and then with the pressure applied, snap off the throttle and the lever will move up selecting the next gear, finally apply the throttle again and remove your foot from the gear lever (don't snatch it back on!).

 

[Ralph]

If you are going to try clutch less changes practice on 5 th to 6 th first, higher the gear easer it is to change.

 

[jonnyg]

Clutchless gear changing is ideal if done correctly! I use this method from 3rd gear up to 6th only as 1st,2nd and 3rd are so close it's hard to get the change spot on. I never use clutchless on the down shift through any gears though as it will stretch your chain, give jerky response and may damage your gearbox as the MT07 hasn't got a slippy clutch fitted.

 

[tw586]

Rode one of the new R6's yesterday, you can upshift from first with no clutch and its as smooth as silk all the way, but not down shift, got to blip the throttle and flick the clutch. Looks like I may be upgrading to a R6 or R1 as I cant stand the cold with no faring.

 

[Scim77]

I guess you mean 'without' using your clutch! - this is a good skill to learn, fast seamless changes. When you want to change up apply a little pressure to the gear lever and then with the pressure applied, snap off the throttle and the lever will move up selecting the next gear, finally apply the throttle again and remove your foot from the gear lever (don't snatch it back on!).

This is exactly the same technique that I, too, have found gives the slickest gearchange on the MT-07. The gearchange is better the faster you can do it, so the "pre-lift" pressure with your foot prior to a rapid throttle-off will give great results. If you try to be gentle and nurse the gearchange sympathetically, it will clunk and sound horrible. With the tiny clutch and low rotating masses the revs whizz up and down like lightening, so it pays to "keep up" with it and clutchless up-changes are the best way.

The gearbox oil also has a major effect on the clutch and gearshift. 'Non-Yamalube' Fully synthetic 10W/40 oils that seem to comply to Yamaha basic specs may not give you a nice clutch/gearshift. I have experienced this anomaly on other makes of bike. I have drained old dirty oil, filled up with my new 'correct' oil and made matter worse! Some oils do not have the correct friction pack and can completely mess up the gearshift. The engine will be fine but the gearshift will become notchy and obstructive. Some famous market-leading brands still get the friction pack wrong. Super-slippery might seem to be highly desirable but with a combined engine/gearbox configuration, like the MT-07, the sting manifests itself in an inferior gearchange. You either canoot clear the clutch enough to find neutral, because the plates have stuck together, or you have a box full of neutrals.

I have already tried this (brave) manoeuvre on my own MT-07. I changed the Yamalube oil for A.N Other and my gearshift went worse. I sometimes could not get it to down shift, since it seemed to have paused midway between indexing strokes. I changed the oil again back to Motul 7100 10W/40 (Motul make Yamalube and rebadge the tins) and Hey Presto, back to normal. Yamalube (Motul 7100) is a cunningly clever brew.

 

[robodene]

Bit late (again!) with this, but on original question: make sure the gear lever height does not need adjusting.

 

[nobull]

Rode one of the new R6's yesterday, you can upshift from first with no clutch and its as smooth as silk all the way, but not down shift, got to blip the throttle and flick the clutch. Looks like I may be upgrading to a R6 or R1 as I cant stand the cold with no faring.

I have both MT07 & R6, if you're upgrading to prevent the cold you'll get a shock. It needs to be at least 5 degrees c warmer for me to go out on R6 otherwise I cant stand it for 3 reasons - 1- canted forward position blows cold air straight down my chest between skin & leathers, 2 - my wrists are knackered from breaking them in my racing days & it hurts even more in the cold/on R6 with more weight on them, & probably most significantly 3 - I ride a lot faster on the R6 so the wind chill is massively increased (I try not to but the engine screams out to be thrashed, its intoxicating in a way the MT cant get anywhere near to, & the reason why I don't ride it often as don't want to lose my license!).

 

[xt660isgood2]

Bit late (again!) with this, but on original question: make sure the gear lever height does not need adjusting.

Thanks for all your suggestions. The bike is fine and everything is adjusted ok. I think only conclusion is the rider is getting a bit old and rusty But as said above, I don't struggle with the XT