How long does a chain last?

[Famousruff]

hey guys!

This is my first motorcycle and I got a quick question.
Pressuming that the maintenance of the chain has been performed in an OK way. How long does a chain usually last before it's time to change chain?
I know it will also vary depending on if you've done track days or desert riding. But let's assume it just "normal" city driving with some long trips.

Have anyone needed to change their chain so far on their MT/FZ 07:s ? and if you have at what milage (in either Miles or Kilometres)?

I hope to recieve as much replies as possible since I'm wondering if I should get a new chain now so I won't have to bother changing in the middle of the short sweet summer

 

[Ralph]

Mines at 9000 miles and has been adjusted about 3 times but that was in the first 1000 miles or so
I expect at least 20,000 it gets oiled when it looks dry and a wipe when it looks grotty, my last
few bikes have been on the org chain when sold at around 20,000, but a TransAlp did chains in
about 7000 until fitted with a DID gold chain after that it never even needed adjusting.

 

[sdrio]

I find maintenance really makes a huge difference. The answer in my experience is somewhere between 10,000 and 30,000+ miles.

I wash the bike every couple of weeks, and always give the chain a complete going over. Either dedicated chain cleaner, or if I've run out, paraffin (kerosene) with a stiff brush to degrease, rinse that off, then use something soapy with hot water (and the stiff brush) to clean it. I normally let it dry, then cover with an oil based chain lube (I use rock oil) and leave it for half an hour before riding, to let the lube settle down - seems the propellant makes it more likely to fling off if you ride immediately after applying.

Also try if you can to reapply the lube after you've ridden in the wet.

I find doing this does far more to preserve the chain that adjusting it every 5 minutes. Mine has been adjusted twice in 12,000 miles, including one at the first service and it's still well within tolerance at the moment.

 

[jobac]

Agree, mines got plenty of life left after 11,000 miles.

On a side note, google chain monkey, great little tool that makes adjusting and checking tension really easy!

 

[Noggie]

Don't have any experience with other bikes since the MT is my first bike, I did have a moped 22+ years ago.

I would assume you should get at least 30.000km out of it.
With good maintenance and adjustments probably a lot more.

The chain will stretch and after a while start wearing down your drive gears as it does not fit the gear anymore. If you start to se wear on the gear it's time to change, and probably change both gears and chain at the same time.

 

[sdrio]

Don't have any experience with other bikes since the MT is my first bike, I did have a moped 22+ years ago.

I would assume you should get at least 30.000km out of it.
With good maintenance and adjustments probably a lot more.

The chain will stretch and after a while start wearing down your drive gears as it does not fit the gear anymore. If you start to se wear on the gear it's time to change, and probably change both gears and chain at the same time.

This is correct, a new chain on old sprockets would be ruined pretty quickly, so you always have to replace chain + 2 sprockets.

 

[DJP]

Mines at 9000 miles and has been adjusted about 3 times but that was in the first 1000 miles or so
I expect at least 20,000 it gets oiled when it looks dry and a wipe when it looks grotty, my last
few bikes have been on the org chain when sold at around 20,000...

Exactly the same here - mine's on 9,000 miles and nowhere near worn.

My last bike, a Bandit 1250, was still wearing the original chain and sprockets when I traded it in at 25,000 miles. And they were still in good nick then.

 

[bobh]

Yes, I'd agree that around 25000 miles / 40000 Km is a realistic goal, with good maintenance.

I'm a believer in changing the front sprocket at about half that mileage. The logic is that it's the component in the drive train that wears quickest, and once the teeth start to get visibly hooked it will have a knock-on effect on the chain. It's also the cheapest bit of the drive train, so by spending a small amount you can extend the life of the rest of it significantly. I've had good results with JT replacement sprockets, but other reputable makes (Afam, Renthal etc.) are also good. Also means you can change the gearing if you so wish.

I'm not a great lover of using proprietary cleaners, unless the chain's been badly neglected. It's too easy to damage the seals by enthusiastic brushing, and once water has got in there, the chain is doomed. On the few occasions when I do feel it necessary to give it a good clean, I prefer to use a water-soluble cleaner and hose it off gently, only brushing the outside of the sideplates where wax can build up. Then you have to wait for it to dry off, which takes forever in the winter. But generally my preference is to just wipe off the worst of the dirt, apply plenty of engine oil from a good old-fashioned oil can, and take the bike for a ride. Pay particular attention to the rollers, making sure they are free to spin - if they can't, they will wear the sprocket teeth. Repeat if necessary. It does mean an accumulation of oily crud under the sprocket cover, and some fling around the back of the bike, but that's a small price to pay. If you fit a Scottoiler, or one of the simpler oiling devices, it pretty much does this for you anyway.

I prefer to use Wurth High Performance Dry Lube (or Dr Bike, which seems like the same stuff) in the warmer months, as it doesn't attract dust. Dealer's workshops won't use dry lubes because they say customers complain that they can't see the job's been done, so they prefer waxes with (white) PTFE. But dry lubes are not brilliant at keeping corrosion at bay in the winter, so I've started using a Renthal product, which is a sort of stringy, sticky oil, once the weather turns cool and wet. It comes in a squeezy bottle, not an aerosol, so it all goes just where you want it - seals, rollers and a bit on the sideplates to stop them going rusty. I've actually been sourcing it from a pushbike shop.

I'd agree that it shouldn't be necessary to be forever adjusting the chain - maybe once between rear tyre changes should be enough. The important thing is not to over-tighten it, which will accelerate wear. My experience with dealer's workshops is that they do tend to overtighten - maybe because they assume owners won't check it until the next service, I don't know. If it's seriously overtight, you'll hear a noticeable transmission whine. With the MT-07 it's easier than on some bikes to check the adjustment, though even then I like to check that there's still a bit of slack with someone sitting on the bike.

 

[Noggie]

I was thinking about just getting 5l of wd40 and drop the chain in my ultrasonic cleaner when the time came.
I got some Castrol chain lube, for o-ringed chains, and it appears to be a white waxy lube.

 

[Ralph]

I'd agree that it shouldn't be necessary to be forever adjusting the chain - maybe once between rear tyre changes should be enough. The important thing is not to over-tighten it, which will accelerate wear. My experience with dealer's workshops is that they do tend to overtighten - maybe because they assume owners won't check it until the next service, I don't know. If it's seriously overtight, you'll hear a noticeable transmission whine. With the MT-07 it's easier than on some bikes to check the adjustment, though even then I like to check that there's still a bit of slack with someone sitting on the bike.

Spot on, after adjustment I sit on the bike and just check how tight it is with the riders weight it will be a lot tighter but if it feels to tight I just back it off a touch.

 

[bobh]

I was thinking about just getting 5l of wd40 and drop the chain in my ultrasonic cleaner when the time came.
I got some Castrol chain lube, for o-ringed chains, and it appears to be a white waxy lube.

Back in the day, when the chain had a split connecting link and no O-rings, it was normal to whip it off and clean it in solvent, then melt it into a tray of hot wax.

But with the endless chains (or rivetted connecting links) on modern bikes I don't think it's really very practical to be taking the chain off to clean it.

 

[Thomas Crown]

I got 17k miles before a link froze and I had to replace it. I cleaned it frequently with a stiff brush and solvent-like chain cleaner. In retrospect, that's likely the reason it took a crap so soon. I now clean with a simple rag and wd40, and try not to compromise the o rings.

 

[Ralph]

When I can get hold of it I use anti through chain saw oil but this one as only had engine oil applied after a ride with a soft brush.

 

[Noggie]

Back in the day, when the chain had a split connecting link and no O-rings, it was normal to whip it off and clean it in solvent, then melt it into a tray of hot wax.

But with the endless chains (or rivetted connecting links) on modern bikes I don't think it's really very practical to be taking the chain off to clean it.

You are probably right about that. Probably more work to take it off than clean it.
Though it could be done as a "winter service" for those storing it wintertime..

 

[Ralph]

Likely do more harm than good, if it ain't broke and all that.