Simple DIY chain slack measurement tool

[msesma]

Measuring the chain slack is not easy: A ruler is not easy to position, you get dirty....

So I have made this simple instrument with a picece of hard wood. Cut an angle of the piece and mark the zone width a with from 44mm to 49mm. The recomended slack is 51mm to 56mm but measured to the center of the chain, what adds 7mm.
It is useful to tape a small mark in the swingarm where the measurement has to be made.

With this tool daily chain measurement is possible, easy and clean.

 

[Ralph]

I have found that if I press the chain up and can just make it touch the the rubbing strip then it's about right.
But what ever way you check it a bit loose is better than a bit tight.

 

[KEVINJSTANLEY]

both great ideas cheers boys

 

[sdrio]

I like the fact the markings are multilingual.

 

[DJP]

I have found that if I press the chain up and can just make it touch the the rubbing strip then it's about right.
But what ever way you check it a bit loose is better than a bit tight.

This^.

I put the bike on the side stand, lean across the pillion seat (so that my weight compresses the suspension) and check the chain by hand (with a glove on).

Over the years, I've developed a feel for when it's right (probably about 40mm of up/down movement) but it's easy to tell when you're riding: If you can feel snatch or slop it's too loose. OTOH, if the gear change isn't as smooth as it should be then it's probably too tight.

As stated, too loose is better.

 

[Ralph]

Msesma's idea has two uses it not only measures chain slack but also brightens your day,
I like that.

 

[Noggie]

funny, I had been thinking about making something similar, my initial idea was slightly different, but I have yet to check the slack on my bike.
It has only done 2000km, and I know it was slack before the first service, but it was adjusted then, and has only done 1000km since so I think it is still good.
Will need a tool like this for next season though, in about 5 months

 

[Ralph]

On mine I had to adjust it before the 600 miler, it was then adjusted again by the dealer as part of the 600 miler,
I thought it was very slightly on the tight side but let it be, it is still within spec at nr 9000 miles, think it's more
to do with the sprockets bedding in than chain stretch, the chain that came on mine is a DID and in my last job
I fitted miles on chain and I can tell you one thing contrary to what many people say DID make very good chain
often size for size being near twice as strong as other leading manufacturers.

 

[sdrio]

On mine I had to adjust it before the 600 miler, it was then adjusted again by the dealer as part of the 600 miler,
I thought it was very slightly on the tight side but let it be, it is still within spec at nr 9000 miles, think it's more
to do with the sprockets bedding in than chain stretch, the chain that came on mine is a DID and in my last job
I fitted miles on chain and I can tell you one thing contrary to what many people say DID make very good chain
often size for size being near twice as strong as other leading manufacturers.

I've only done mine once in about the same time. It does seem to be pretty strong.

Something I've learned in 30+ years of biking is that looking after a chain properly really pays for itself. When I wash the bike, I clean the chain thoroughly with chain cleaner, and lube it up well afterwards. I usually give it a dash of lube after a wet ride too. Do it frequently when there's salt on the roads.

If you look after it, a decent chain will last 10's of thousands of miles. If you don't, the chain and the sprockets can be shot after a couple of thousand.

I stick to oil based lube (I use rock oil). Probably no science in it, but to me the dry teflon stuff never sounds or feels like it's doing anything.

 

[DJP]

I stick to oil based lube (I use rock oil). Probably no science in it, but to me the dry teflon stuff never sounds or feels like it's doing anything.

IMHO dry chain lube is crap and I had my one and only chain failure using it.

I was given a free can of the stuff when I bought a new chain. At the time, people were raving about how good dry lubes were, so I thought I'd give it a go.

It was fine through the summer, but the chain rusted almost immediately the first time they put salt on the roads. It went that quickly (as in a few days) that by the time I noticed, it was too late to save it. (A dozen or so links were seized beyond saving).

Dry lube might lubricate OK but it offers no protection from corrosion.

These days, I've gone back to using ordinary engine oil applied sparingly with an old toothbrush. It lubes as well as anything and doesn't build up on the chain like the spray lubes do.

 

[Ralph]

IMHO dry chain lube is crap and I had my one and only chain failure using it.

I was given a free can of the stuff when I bought a new chain. At the time, people were raving about how good dry lubes were, so I thought I'd give it a go.

It was fine through the summer, but the chain rusted almost immediately the first time they put salt on the roads. It went that quickly (as in a few days) that by the time I noticed, it was too late to save it. (A dozen or so links were seized beyond saving).

Dry lube might lubricate OK but it offers no protection from corrosion.

These days, I've gone back to using ordinary engine oil applied sparingly with an old toothbrush. It lubes as well as anything and doesn't build up on the chain like the spray lubes do.

Yep I have a brush and a little container of semi synth engine oil and after most rides wile the chain is still warm I just brush a thin coat on,
I did used to use ant fling chain saw oil but have rune out.

 

[Yaminator]

Yep I have a brush and a little container of semi synth engine oil and after most rides wile the chain is still warm I just brush a thin coat on,
I did used to use ant fling chain saw oil but have rune out.

Hey Ralph if that's your technique then using gear oil instead will be much better mate..