If I was to change the oil as you suggest, should I need to disassemble the clutch and soak the plates in oil before reassembly, or is that only for a new, dry clutch?
D
Deleted member 20
Guest
You dont need to change the oil, first make sure you identify the specification of the oil running around in your bike. Ask your dealer/mechanic. If it's already MA2, no need to replace with another MA2. If it's anything else than MA2, replace with MA2.
If problem solved -- check. If not, move to step 2 i.e. open the motor an look at your clutch. Measure play, examine the stack. Have a PROFESSIONAL do this for you, but don't leave the room.
(FYI, I'm paying £ 5.60 for one litre of my favo 100% synthetic 10w40 MA2 SM oil. The engine takes 2.6 l so that's £ 15 for the lot.)
Sorry for not answering your question above. If/when disassembling your clutch and taking out the stack of plates and eyeballing em, they are already soaked in oil. No need to soak them any further. If installing new friction plates, only for the reason of them being worn or broken, you need to pre-soak a new plate before introducing to the stack. If clearance is low, you can either replace friction plates with new/unworn ones or typically replace one or more of the steel clutch plates that typically come in 1.6 or 2.0 or 2.3 mm thickness. The MT07 comes stock with all 6 identical steel clutch plates, presumably 2.0 mm each, data that I have not been able to confirm. Replacing one 2.0 plate for a 2.3 plate adds 0.3 mm clearance.
A dry clutch is dry, and it sits open/exposed outside the bike. Air-cooled, or rather rain-cooled in UK. Dry clutches don't like oil. Yamaha M1 (think MotoGP, Rossi) have dry clutch.
<font color="#333333">[video=youtube;OEeX1iMQnBM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OEeX1iMQnBM[/video]
If problem solved -- check. If not, move to step 2 i.e. open the motor an look at your clutch. Measure play, examine the stack. Have a PROFESSIONAL do this for you, but don't leave the room.
(FYI, I'm paying £ 5.60 for one litre of my favo 100% synthetic 10w40 MA2 SM oil. The engine takes 2.6 l so that's £ 15 for the lot.)
Sorry for not answering your question above. If/when disassembling your clutch and taking out the stack of plates and eyeballing em, they are already soaked in oil. No need to soak them any further. If installing new friction plates, only for the reason of them being worn or broken, you need to pre-soak a new plate before introducing to the stack. If clearance is low, you can either replace friction plates with new/unworn ones or typically replace one or more of the steel clutch plates that typically come in 1.6 or 2.0 or 2.3 mm thickness. The MT07 comes stock with all 6 identical steel clutch plates, presumably 2.0 mm each, data that I have not been able to confirm. Replacing one 2.0 plate for a 2.3 plate adds 0.3 mm clearance.
A dry clutch is dry, and it sits open/exposed outside the bike. Air-cooled, or rather rain-cooled in UK. Dry clutches don't like oil. Yamaha M1 (think MotoGP, Rossi) have dry clutch.
<font color="#333333">[video=youtube;OEeX1iMQnBM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OEeX1iMQnBM[/video]
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Ralph
New member
If you do strip the clutch get a piece of plate glass and place the plates on it one by one
see if you can detect any warping or bucking, if they are not dead flat replace.
see if you can detect any warping or bucking, if they are not dead flat replace.
U forgot to mention that the rear views are useless, the breaks are lame and that you're legs get more wet on the back then the front when it rains . on top of that u can't read the dash without looking down pretty hard and it is unsafely quiet .
So if u fix all these problems, it's not that cheap anymore .
On the other hand I love how it drives . butt it's not for everyday use. It's an oke bike if u just take it out for a spin now and then when it's nice and sunny .
So for me the conclusion is simple, for my purpose it's not a good bike and I wouldn't buy it again. dispite the high fun factor
D
Deleted member 20
Guest
Mirrors are identical to MT09 but smaller than older TDM, XJ6 etc. Biggest problem is narrow bars, but that can be fixed by £30 Renthal bars in a bend of your preference. The mirrors on a Street Triple are a joke, you see nothing and you can't adjust them to position if you're taller than 175 cm. So the MT07 mirrors are just fine, mounted on proper bars.
Brakes are good. No problem at all. Calipers, master cylinders, rotors and pads are same as any other Yamaha last 15 years. Grippier pads and even stiffer lines will always improve bite, true for any bike. Price/performance is good.
Wet legs, no comment on that one.
Dash position might be sub-optimal for some, good for others. You can easily move it if you want. The MT07 dash is informative, readable and way better than the small MT09 dash. Personally I perfer old-school analogue tach, but I'm an old guy. Conclusion is that the MT07 dash is sufficient but not the best in the world. R1200GS have analogue speedo but not tach, KTM 1190 Adventure the other way around. Triumph's have tacho. Older Yamahas like TDM, XJ6 etc. also have analogue tacho. Modern racebikes all have digital "infotainment" race setup screens.
No bike is perfect. No bike does everything for everyone. No bike is the holy grail swiss army knife weapon. Different bikes for different use, wallet, size, weight, preference etc.
Thanks everyone for their input on my questions, I will have a read through again at the weekend.
I'm going to book in in for a service next week at a different dealer, I will probably ask them to look at the clutch then, and see if it can be done under warranty.
Looking at what Tommeke said, it strikes me there is an alternative. I might look at buying a really old clapped out CBR600 or something, just for commuting. Old bikes are cheap to insure over here, I could probably buy one and insure it for a year for less than £1,000. The MT07 can just be kept for Box hill runs on sunny weekends.
Thanks again.
I'm going to book in in for a service next week at a different dealer, I will probably ask them to look at the clutch then, and see if it can be done under warranty.
Looking at what Tommeke said, it strikes me there is an alternative. I might look at buying a really old clapped out CBR600 or something, just for commuting. Old bikes are cheap to insure over here, I could probably buy one and insure it for a year for less than £1,000. The MT07 can just be kept for Box hill runs on sunny weekends.
Thanks again.
MrSquidbeak
New member
Alot of people calling each other moaners and saying you get what you paid for.
I agree its a damn cheap bike. A great bike. I love riding it!
But i dont expect any bike, ANY BIKE (especially one made by such a big manufacturer like Yamaha) to rust within the first 2 months!
This is my first ever NEW bike and after this dont think i would ever buy new again. I only ride it when its sunny, wash it after ever ride (is kept outside but under two covers) and dont expect rust on the bike at all.
I love how fun this bike is to ride but if it was stolen i wouldnt buy another one with the insurance money! I think i would look at a Triumph Speed Triple like i was looking at originally.
So to some up my rant- Great fun bike that puts a smile on my face when riding it, but makes me unhappy when cleaning it and looking at the rust
I agree its a damn cheap bike. A great bike. I love riding it!
But i dont expect any bike, ANY BIKE (especially one made by such a big manufacturer like Yamaha) to rust within the first 2 months!
This is my first ever NEW bike and after this dont think i would ever buy new again. I only ride it when its sunny, wash it after ever ride (is kept outside but under two covers) and dont expect rust on the bike at all.
I love how fun this bike is to ride but if it was stolen i wouldnt buy another one with the insurance money! I think i would look at a Triumph Speed Triple like i was looking at originally.
So to some up my rant- Great fun bike that puts a smile on my face when riding it, but makes me unhappy when cleaning it and looking at the rust
Ralph
New member
Try a net search for Triumph motorcycle rusting or something like it, not many
bikes are up to the UK climate, they should be but they are not, and as long
as bikers put up with it and make excuses for them they wont change a thing.
bikes are up to the UK climate, they should be but they are not, and as long
as bikers put up with it and make excuses for them they wont change a thing.
Phil_B
Moderator
Rusty discs can be sorted with a green dish scourer when washing followed by a good dry.
Only had a spot of rust on the chain and that was from putting it away wet. Now I always dry and lube if I've soaked it. And wax that baby up!! I know it's white and gunky but it works.
I do have rust in the RHS bar end though.
Only had a spot of rust on the chain and that was from putting it away wet. Now I always dry and lube if I've soaked it. And wax that baby up!! I know it's white and gunky but it works.
I do have rust in the RHS bar end though.
spencer
New member
Took it for its first service today at Laguna Maidstone told them about the rust and they said they were going to take some pictures of the rust and send them Yamaha. wasn't totally convinced this was going to happen but I will give them the benefit of the dealt, will call in a couple of week to see if any think has been done or not. £55 for the service wasn't to bad.
Ralph
New member
Not rust but a quality thing.
I have noticed on a few including mine is that the starter button is sticky
and does not fully return to it's rest position, every time, if it stays engaged you will
get a engine management light so if you do check the switch has returned. I will bring it
up at the next service, the indicator switch feels a bit loose but every one I have tryed
seem the same, the MT-125 switches seem better made.
I have noticed on a few including mine is that the starter button is sticky
and does not fully return to it's rest position, every time, if it stays engaged you will
get a engine management light so if you do check the switch has returned. I will bring it
up at the next service, the indicator switch feels a bit loose but every one I have tryed
seem the same, the MT-125 switches seem better made.
Torque
New member
I'm putting in a warranty claim for mine as they are the only part on my bike that look like s**t after only a short time riding and cleaning it.
BTW if you powder coat these pipes, I'd recommend you mask off the short length past the flange that the O-Ring sits on in order to provide a smooth surface for a seal. See parts diagram below:
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Had the same sticky starter problem, it was replaced under warranty. I'd rather have a 'normal' starter button like all my motorcycles had before. But oh well, let's see how long this one lasts
Darren
New member
I ride my bike all year round and I have got into washing my bike off every weekend without fail. The salted roads are harsh on bikes and it doesn't matter what bikes I've had if you do not do this after a very short time the bike will suffer! Even in dry sunny conditions the salt is kicked up as dust and will find it's way in to destroy your metal work. I had an SV last winter with very few frosted nights when salt was checked down but the bike was not the same pristine condition it was before the winter started, fork legs and engine casing was all poorly affected. Unless you closet the bike for the winter you are going to be affected what ever bike you buy and you need to keep on top of it.....bikes are for riding!
Problem with those pipes is the location. Not that I'm suggesting they should be elsewhere, but they're pretty much exactly where spray from the front wheel will hit them constantly. I commented elsewhere, they're a real salt magnet.
Mine are always plastered with ACF50 after I wash the bike, but that hasn't actually helped, presumably the constant stream of water/salt/whatever other crap is on the road has blasted it off.
What they should have done is painted them with something that resists corrosion.
Thanks, appreciate the tip.
Ralph
New member
One thing I notice is at the front of the swinging arm were the arm is that the shock
works on, is hard to see never mind clean and gets covered in road crud and salt, this
is made like the swinging arm of steel and so could be a potential problem in time
as rust bugs start to feed on it and weaken a very highly stressed and needed part
of the suspension.
works on, is hard to see never mind clean and gets covered in road crud and salt, this
is made like the swinging arm of steel and so could be a potential problem in time
as rust bugs start to feed on it and weaken a very highly stressed and needed part
of the suspension.
Exactly the reason why I am going to clean that area and cover it up with that bitumen stuff, once I change the hugger (it's open and free then anyway).
Because there is a bracket like thing there which seems like it is eh.. susceptible to rust.
Just a bit of a hassle, need to remove the wheel as well to get good access to it all.
All metal plates/parts with a sharp edge seem like they can start rusting any moment. There are also some underneath the tank (go grab a flashlight and see) which can use some treatment with something (or just repaint properly).
Oh well, guess it just has to be done
It's probably not the right thing to do, but I get in there with a pressure washer. Only way to be sure you've got all the crap off.Exactly the reason why I am going to clean that area and cover it up with that bitumen stuff, once I change the hugger (it's open and free then anyway).
Because there is a bracket like thing there which seems like it is eh.. susceptible to rust.
Just a bit of a hassle, need to remove the wheel as well to get good access to it all.
All metal plates/parts with a sharp edge seem like they can start rusting any moment. There are also some underneath the tank (go grab a flashlight and see) which can use some treatment with something (or just repaint properly).
Oh well, guess it just has to be done